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It is essentially very simple and can be made using some strip board and a few cheap electronic components. The stuff needed is as follows (maplin code in brackets C1 Polyester capacitor.1uF 250V (BX76H). C2 Polyester capacitor.047uF 250V (BX74R). C3 Polyester capacitor.01uf vac (got off e-bay). D2 Suppressor 250VAC (HW13p vr1 Variable resistor or pot 220k (FW06G).
R1 Min Resistor 4k7 (M4K7 r2 Min Resistor 22k (M22K r3 Min Resistor 100R (M100R). D1 diac DB3 (QL08J t1 Triac bta26-600B (UK56L) (the 16a version would suffice - i was in an overkill mood). Some strip board to put it all. Optional components (more on this later 2x rectifier J04 (BH46A) 3 each (but I got very similar ones on e-bay for 99p each) 50va step down transformer 240V to 9v - (search out old power supplies, audio amps, hi fi's, etc.). The triac itself can often be salvaged from the washing machines along with the motor. I could have also ordered some spade connectors to make the 'live 'neutral 'the armature' and the 'stator coil' contacts, but I felt like making my own to save a few pennies (see photo).
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Working out write which connections do what on the essay motor, is one of the first steps (see the photo below in which one of the brushes has been unbolted for clarity). Also check out the diagram that shows what bits of the motor are what. There will likely be 3 stator coil connections, 2 brush contacts, 2 tachometer contacts, and an earth connection on the motor frame. Step 3: Speed Control (part 2 - making a simple circuit). The pulse-width-modulation circuit that we want can be made in a number of ways. It is essentially the same stuff that is in a light dimmer switch, all be it beefed up a bit so it can handle higher current. One might be salvaged from some other device that has speed control: many modern vacuum cleaners have one, discarded power tools would be another possible source. Really though, this would be quite a lucky find. I chose to make my own (to better understand it and to and add some mods).
This is a disaster because you often want the most torque and predictable performance at low speed. A much better method is to make a very simple triac controller circuit, also referred to as a pulse-width-modulation or chopper circuit. This stage required me to do fair bit of learning, but in the end I was able to build a really nice little controller that adjusts the speed quite accurately with a turn knob (an elaborately decorative new version of which I shall make once. All that is needed are some quite cheap components (available from most electronics mail order biography places) and a soldering iron. After reading lots of books and websites I found a fantastic chapter about speed control. Here is a link to the book, electric Motors in the home workshop by jim Cox (pages 59 to 73 are well worth reading). The good thing about a triac system is that you don't need to faff about with changing pulleys or drive belts. Also you get to learn some cool electronics jazz!
wound, commutator motors. One of the down sides to modern series wound washing machine motors is that they are designed to go very fast, and when run on unfettered mains current will screech along at about 8,000 rpm with a modest load (as i already said don't run. This uncontrolled speed is bad because: a) it is going to make a lot of noise, annoying you and your neighbours; b) to turn wood on a lathe we will need a much lower rpm - from about. To achieve this without some sort of electronic control would mean an elaborate (read even more noisy) and large pulley system, and, c) if connected straight to the mains the speed regulation will be poor when load is applied to the motor. In other words when you start turning your wood and you push the cutting tool into it, the speed will fluctuate wildly. Ideally you would like the rpm to remain predictably constant, rather than speeding up and slowing down as you make your master-works on the lathe. There are various ways to build a controller - probably the minimum and most basic is to vary the voltage with a variable transformer. Although very simple, this is not a good solution because: when you set it to run at low voltage/low speed, it will also have very low torque - and it will still suffer greatly from point (c) above.
It is now simply a case of unbolting it from its mountings. These motors can be run off both dc and ac making them quite versatile little beasties. In the picture i am testing the motor with a dc bench supply, made from an old computer psu (power supply unit - check out. Do not connect the motor to mains ghostwriter voltage without any load attached. Series wound motors have no theoretical limit to their speed and the centrifugal forces can fling the motor armature apart! Even with a modest load a direct connection to 240V mains is a bad idea, as the speeds are likely to strain the bearings, brushes and frame - all of which are not designed for unlimited power without a hefty mechanical load. Another way to test a motor of this sort without a bench-top supply is to attach a 1000W electric heater wire between the brushes.
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Step 1: Acquiring the motor, for this you are either going to buy a motor, or scavenge and reuse one. Favouring the latter and more environmentally-friendly option, this instructable assumes you will scavenge one. The picture shows an old washing machine motor salvaged from a machine my parents were throwing out. These tend to be a good and surprisingly plentiful (keep your eyes out) source of one horsepower series wound commutator motors. It should provide plenty enough power to drive a small wood lathe like the one i am planning. If you do get a washing machine motor try and grab the whole machine - then in the comfort of your own home you can take your time to work how out how the wiring went. If like me you were on a time budget to get it away from your parents sub-Arctic outside shed just cut it out and get as much of the electronics as possible. To extract the motor, turn the machine upside-down and you should be able to see the motor.